Friday, March 24, 2006

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Adapted by Hermit . is your responsibility to inform intervene well before your vehicle.
When the engine refuses to boot there are several possibilities:
1. That is drowned
2. There is no electric spark in the spark
3. That benzene is interrupted feeding.
In the first case, let him rest for a while and then try to make the game. Usually this is enough to start the engine.
To test if there is spark at the spark plugs, the procedure is to remove a spark plug wire and put a long screwdriver until it contacts the socket on the inside of the rubber cap. All this without the key contact .
Then the screwdriver is about 2 mm. metal part of the engine and asks the passenger to contact with the key ... if the spark is there to give the starting current of the motor. Do this with caution to avoid electrical shock.
If a good spark plugs, the problem is probably power.
The fault location power system lies simply in follow the path of fuel from the tank to the engine in order to locate the cause of the problem.
Start by checking that there is gas operation (do not rely solely on gas indicator to determine this, as it may give a false reading.)
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then slowly unscrew the top of the tank to provide ear while doing so (Fig. 4). If you hear a hiss of air that enters the tank, means that the tank breather system is blocked and has formed a vacuum that has reached the point where the fuel pump fails to extract more fuel.
If the respirator tank of your car is locked (usually consists of a small hole in the filler cap or a small tube that goes from the tank to outdoors) should be cleaned to remove the vacuum.
If these problems do not apply to your car, you may not gasoline reaches the carburetor. To check this, remove the feeding tube of the carburetor and check the fuel pump (by turning the engine with the starter if the pump is mechanical or simply by contact if electric), which should have resulted in the issuance of fuel the tube. If no fuel flow, the more likely is that the pump is defective.
Electric pumps can sometimes be encouraged by giving them a tap with the handle of a screwdriver, but if this fails, the only remedy, as is the case with mechanical pumps, is to remove and replace the unit.
Once satisfied that the fuel reaches the carburetor and the ignition works correctly, the more likely is that the defect is in the carburetor itself.
In most of the carbs, remove the cover of floating is not difficult.
If the camera is full, it means that you have problems with choking, (usually the smell gets discovered this before removing the cover from the top of float), in which case the plugs are wet and not shoot.
A common cause of this is the existence of dirt under the needle valve, but it is not difficult to unscrew and clean the seat. If you remove a carburetor on the road, store the parts carefully so they can be replaced in the proper order. Be especially careful to do so, as some carburetors have acceleration pumps with a ball and spring can lose.
The most common cause of overheating is a break in the fan belt, but there should be a warning of this, since the light will turn coil.
Although many cars today have installed an electric fan, the belt is used to power the water pump and if it does not work, water does not circulate properly and result in overheating. If you do not have a fan belt with it, try the traditional repair using a provisional average woman.
Tie it just around the crankshaft pulley and water pump to ease a little load.
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If the battery is fully charged, you may travel a long distance without having to load depending on whether or not you use your lights or other electrical equipment.
If you notice the temperature gauge gives a reading higher than usual for no apparent reason, stop and check the cooling system.
The first thing is to check the filler cap once slightly cooled engine, protect your hand with a cloth and loosen it a quarter turn taking precaution in case there is a steam leak, not to burn. By loosening the lid should you hear a slight hiss. If not, the dock cover is worn or has rotted the seal, which pressure is not maintained properly. In the automotive sealing system, the lid spring is in the expansion tank. Once
pressure relieved, remove the lid and check the coolant level should normally be about 25 mm from the base of the fill hole. In a sealed system, the level of the expansion tank should be around around about 65 mm from the bottom, but there is usually a mark indicating the correct level.
If the level is low, check for leaks. If leaks along the hose clamps, they can usually be corrected by tightening these, while a cracked hose should be wrapped with electrical tape to make a repair.
Small leaks in the radiator can be repaired using preparations such as Bars Leaks or Rad Weld. Water leaks in the pump shaft, this indicates that the collar of the pump is broken and will need to install a new one.
thermostats rarely get stuck in the closed position, but can cause serious overheating. A significant symptom of this is a violent thumping noise coming from the radiator caused by steam bubbles are driven by force through the lower sleeve. To remedy this, let the engine cool, remove the thermostat and drive you home. Put a new one as soon as possible. One cause of overheating
is the head gasket burned, which announced its existence by engine failure, loss of power and, of course, an increase of temperature. The above symptoms are the appearance of globules of water on the dipstick, checking oil in the radiator water or both. There's nothing you can do to remedy this road. Allow to cool the engine and then drive slowly to the nearest workshop for repair soon.
Source: es.geocities.com / errediez www.parque4x4.com.ar/ preparations / vitara /

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