Pain Just Above Belly Button Pregnancy

Springs - Brake Bleeding

If the braking efficiency is reduced may be because air has entered the brake system, in which case the installation must be purged. It's also good to purge every time you replace a damaged item and the bowler, or whenever the servo circuit is opened for repairs.

General Instructions.
- Device assistance should not be acting during the operation (the engine is stopped).
- Fill the reservoir with brake fluid as possible and ensure that the tank is not emptied during operation of bleed (back to fill in the case), leaving open the lid of the tank.
- By being willing brake circuit "X" This should be done at each wheel bowler in a specific order, that is, back left, front right and rear right, front left.
- Brake Bleeding must be done between two people.
- During the brake bleed the brake pedal is activated quickly by stepping on and releasing it slowly to avoid this is to give around the o-ring is in the master cylinder causing a major breakdown.

Procedure.
- First remove the rubber cover that covers the bleed valve of the bowler. Screw inserted into a transparent tube, the other end of the tube submerged in a container of brake fluid (figure above).
- Loosen the screw with a wrench (usually 8). Then step on the pedal (the other person) so quickly down and up slowly, doing this several times until the liquid flow through the tube without bubbles, and then with the pedal fully depressed, tighten the bleeder.
- Repeat operation on all four wheels in the order recommended by, checking in each, the tank is full so that no air in pipelines. After the operation, filling the tank to the level indicated.
- If the review of the circuit has been completely or you need to change your brake fluid should drain the system starting from the tank by sucking the liquid with a syringe or something, fill the reservoir with fresh fluid and opening the bleed screws leaving out the old fluid until you see out the back. Then close the drain screw with the pedal fully depressed and perform the purging of wheel to wheel brakes as explained above.
in vehicles equipped with ABS brakes purging is done in the same way. Just take note that any repair carried out in the ABS hidrogrupo brings to purge it.

Facts about
Brake Fluid Brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid composed of alcohol or glycerin base.
This liquid has the quality of high boiling point, so that hydraulic fluid becomes the ideal for this circuit, as this temperature is approximately about 300 ° C.
When you handle this type of liquid, we must be careful not to touch it, to avoid spills because it is hygroscopic. In effect stripping the vehicle has in the paintwork.
level should not exceed the maximum, to prevent leakage. Are we missing brake fluid will fill, it is possible that the pads wear out and in turn lower the liquid level, but if we have to fill in, we may be at a loss.
recommend the fluid change twice a year and check your level every time we take a trip.
With Electronic Image tester can know within seconds the real state of the brake fluid, measuring the level of humidity.
Source: http://mecanicavirtual.iespana.es/hazlo-sellar-rosca.htm

User Manual For Old Nortel 350 Phone

- Dual Battery & Alternator

Summary by Hermit
explain below how the alternator charges the battery as the car and how to connect two batteries.
have to understand some of this equipment.

The alternator has a three-phase winding mounted on the stator, or be still. After having a rotor with a DC winding receiving small field current through two slip rings linked to the controller through brush commonly called "coal."
current field or which enters the rotor magnet is relatively small and is modulated, either electronically or mechanically by the famous governor. The stator
or "induced" or "armor" induces a three-phase AC voltage great frequency. On the same stator we have a bridge of 6 diodes that convert alternating current to feed continuous auto charges and also charge the battery.
(For charges means all electric car, ie: bulbs, radio, coils, computer, etc.).
At higher engine revolutions have induced more stress. A more current field or rotor induced voltage have also increased. Moral
, the controller is responsible for modulating the flow field so that NEVER voltage exceeds about 14 volts.
Therefore, the only thing that makes the controller is to limit the field current and therefore limit the output voltage.

One might ask then who limits the output current or load current?
Nothing less than the generator itself.
The alternator is a machine very difficult to "pass power." It has the characteristic of "saturation."
Then, a 100 amp alternator can hardly produce more than 100 amps, whatever you do.
With so hard to burn the stator windings.
How to connect two batteries? There
drivers foresight to have 2 batteries on long trips to keep connected in parallel loaded.

Several circuit designs, from basic to just have a breaker to remove the batteries to more sophisticated designs, including solenoids.

(Note: the diagrams are informative, the installation must be done by an auto electrician)
Finally, the important thing is to make sure the best way to keep them loaded and you can leave the original for the vehicle and the second to operate the winch and connect the auxiliary lights and stereo with subwoofer that is so common to find the vehicles.
With this configuration would be very difficult to run out of power from the 4x4 and allows for a long time to stop the vehicle, taking care to disconnect the main battery to charge and do not miss high school used to supply energy in the room Camping, for example.
What happens if you download the two batteries?
Well, once we do from the car, comes the question ... will you be able alternator charging two batteries in parallel? ...
Faced with the problem of charging two batteries, one must point out that a battery "dead", to apply 14 volts, it never takes more than 20 amps for a while and in a few moments take a lower power yet.
So even with two batteries "dead" at most have 40 amps of consumption for a moment and then the batteries will slowly recovering at a much lower system power consumption of the generator.
Conclusion: any modern alternator load two large batteries without any problems. Notably
either one or two batteries, when they are "dead" we need more or less 10 hours of engine running to say that they are charged to full.
So if you gave the winch until the battery enough said! and died, program yourself a long trip to make sure to have them loaded properly.
Note: Some modern cars come with regulators working at higher voltage (close to 15 volts.) This obviously means that the battery charge faster because it absorbs more current, but not any battery that supports and often short.
This is intended for city cars that stop and tear many times a day to ensure the replacement of the battery. But cars like 4x4s that make long trips, complete cooking the batteries, especially if they are of poor quality.
Ideally, the generator will not work to more than 13.8 (or 14 volts maximum). However at a fully discharged battery requires a trip of about 10 hours to recover the full load a battery to zero.
Although the best is a slow charger, about five amperes connected for 16 hours in the garage.

Desmume How To Stop Lag

-

A. - OFF-ROAD DRIVING TIPS
People usually learn management techniques on the road running or "ON THE JOB (OJT) or in the school of hard knocks. Eventually, you learn to handle this way but learn first how to "NOT DO" before learning how to "get it right" can be expensive and discouraging. ROAD activities with a group of experienced people can be a good way to learn if they are willing to help and teach you to know the details off-road driving
Ultimately, if you invest enough time in imitating the techniques of a professional as soon as you handle a professional. However, learning to handle watching people not very experienced, often resulting in a repetition of the same mistakes and bad habits, so be careful who you learn.
not have to be an excellent neurologist to master the art of driving in SUVs, but there are successes and failures, things to do and things that should not be to make things exciting and dangerous things. In order to give beginners ROAD starting point, we begin this session with topics such as attitudes, cognitions, some PRINCIPLES BASIC and "especially" the technique of how to shoot SLOWLY. Subsequently, we will focus on different aspects of managing ROAD in detail. I hope that even the most experienced and fans ROAD to learn, or relearn some of their techniques or perhaps two.
Finally, the time spent or experience on the road, which will develop your management skills ROAD. If you start with the "Basic Principles" in mind, you can avoid many common mistakes people make when learning on the fly.
If you remember a single idea in this article about how to handle off-road, it should be:
DRIVE SLOWLY SO AS POSSIBLE, OR AS FAST AS NEEDED
This wise and short sentence sums up the art of driving in SUVs and comes from the Camel Trophy. The Camel Trophy Land Rovers subjects, with very few modifications, and their drivers to the most difficult terrain, remote and inhospitable on the planet. Camel Trophy participants are sometimes experienced and knowledgeable but others are novices. Anyway, all pilots go through a training course that emphasizes the Basic Principles have in mind. Whether used or not during the competition a month depends on the competitors, but the winners are usually those that use them.

B. - ZEN AND THE ART OF "ROAD"
At the risk of sounding too mystical, let's start by saying that good basis for managing start-road above the neck. JUDGEMENT, forecasting, and setting aside the ego too, are thinking of a good driver ROAD. ROAD good pilots are still maneuvering (obstacles) harder look easy .. No drama, no presumption. ROAD good pilots easily say "NO" to any obstacle that is beyond their abilities, the capacity of their vehicles and "common sense."
The true test of the maturity of the management "ROAD" is when the adrenaline is flowing and the anger is being challenged by others within the group. The friendly competition is one thing, but stupidity is another. Should take the physician's credo:

"ABOVE ALL THINGS getting hurt"

("ABOVE ALL DO NOT HARM.") ROAD translating it into language means you do not hurt yourself, your passengers, your vehicle and / or nature. You are the captain of this little boat, you take responsibility for everything on board. YOU CAN TAKE IT SERIOUSLY AND HAVE FUN WHILE
Yes, the practice of ROAD is a sport, a fun hobby, even an addiction for some. The reality is that it can and does hurt to some people. Others spend a lot of money needlessly damaging their vehicles. The cause of both problems is too fast and / or too much ego. Some say "I DO NOT have a good time unless RESALE HAS SOME OF MY JEEP. I guess for some people this is fine. I do not know you but my money is best applications to use fixing things that were broken by negligence or carelessness.
People are much more difficult (if not impossible) TO ARRANGE
Throughout this article we will discuss the aspects of management ROAD SAFETY in some detail, at least in regard to the vehicle. Much has to do with intelligence and the pilot has control and accountability. about it.

C. - PROTECT YOUR SPORT
ROAD As practitioners we must be aware of the nature. Many of us do a good job keeping us on the road, picking up trash and leaving the areas we visit better than you found them, HANDLE GENTLY BY THE WAY.
However, there are individuals among us who care nothing more than the momentary satisfaction of the impulse to destroy something silly. We call them "arrogant" for not telling them worse. Fortunately, they are a small group, but do more damage to nature than the rest of us together. The damage to our reputation as pilots is ROAD It's like paying huge enemy soldiers your bullets.
our duty to look beyond our own actions. We look to those "arrogant." Sometimes they just need a friendly advice, others something else. It is your duty to enforce the laws but if you let them know they are being observed and that the "arrogance" is not funny.

D. - THE VALUE OF GOOD ROAD TEAM
If you put the best rider in the worst 4X4 and the worst driver in the best 4x4, best pilot will be the best ever. Anyway, imagine what the best driver could make the best 4x4. You can have fun in almost any 4x4, but without changing 4X4 (agency) will force much more than a 4X4 moderately modified. A set of modifications and accessories not only give you more time to your 4X4 but also give you skill and ability to maneuver on roads, obstacles and difficult situations.

E. - vs. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. MANUAL
For lovers of manual transmissions are a headache thinking about switching to an automatic transmission. Likewise, lovers of automatic transmissions think that those who like manual transmissions live in the past. There are advantages and disadvantages of little importance for each type of transmission, but a lot depends on what one likes to use. However, management techniques are greatly different.
The biggest difference in performance (PERFORMANCE) between an automatic transmission and a manual is on the engine braking on descents. The mechanical clutch manual transmission has the advantage of stopping the vehicle speed on a slope. The low gear and the torque converter to help low speed automatic transmission, yet both do not allow one hundred percent of clutch. The manual transmission may not require the use of brakes on a steep descent while the automatic transmission always needs a judicious stand on the brake pedal to keep the speed low.
With automatic transmission can withstand a higher gear because in effect the torque converter is a variable ratio of the first. The mechanical relationship of the rear sprocket on most vehicles with automatic transmission is 2.4-3:1. It does not seem impressive until you multiply by the ratio of torque converter, usually 2.0-2.5:1. This relationship combined with mechanical relations gives the effect of a lower ratio. This "relationship" changes with engine speed. You can have a 2.5:1 drive ratio (multiplied by the mechanical connection) to 850 RPM to 1000 RPM but drops to 1.5:1 and, for 1500 RPM converter clutches almost one to one.
effective management technique for a vehicle with automatic transmission is to use the left foot on the brake pedal. In certain situations, like climbing on rocks, use simultaneously the brake and accelerator. For example, in rocky ground, you have enough throttle to 1000 RPM and use the brake to control speed. A brake light when a rock climbing and braking more pronounced when lowered.
Driving with a manual transmission requires making decisions. Often, you have to choose the right gear to perform the task without a second chance. The most significant example of this is climbing, which is not always advisable to change half way up. It should also be more careful of your gear (powertrain) when the lever. Excessive use of the accelerator pedal causes severe impact loads to the drive train. The damage to the drive train in 4X4 manual transmissions are much more common than automatic transmissions.
If driving a vehicle with manual transmission should acquire the habit of leaving the powertrain work at their own pace before hammering the throttle. And above all do not hit the clutch. Except for the right moment that makes the speed change is to keep your left foot on the floor. When you climb slopes, if you're not in sync with your motor you can lose control. There are some situations emergency where you release the clutch pedal feeling that your engine is broken. At any other time NOT USE THE CLUTCH. If you find that you are using the clutch constantly probably need to change gear at LOW GEAR.
In general, the automatic transmission has better performance in almost all fields. It takes an expert to speed changer that with a manual transmission can match the smoothness of an automatic transmission in SUVs. Without the fear of getting stuck, the average auto vehicle can climb safely land on which a vehicle similar manual atoraría and bounce out of control.

F. - EYE SETTINGS AND SELECT LINES Your
4X4, 4X4 all, you need only two things to conquer land, TRACTION AND HEIGHT. These two elements are the design and vehicle equipment. In any case, the pilot has to maximize any capacity that the vehicle is carefully choosing the path and route. This technique is known as "CHOOSING THE LINE" (PICKING THE LINE).
Learn to choose the line is one of the most valuable management skills ROAD. Required to place our mind in a three-dimensional thinking, and while some people show innate abilities in this regard, some not. Anyone can learn at least some degree of mastery in the art. Just a question to practice, practice, practice. Watching a good pilot work can be another valuable lesson.
The first part is to measure the imperfections of the field against CLAO height (clearance) for your vehicle. This means you need to be familiar with the angles of attack in your car, your angle of approach, angle of departure, the maximum torque angle of your suspension (BRAKEOVER RAMP) and the position of your spreads to obstacles. The easiest way to do that is watching, looking under your car and measuring the angles visually. Walk around, crouch under the vehicle, locate the location parts of it, vital measures angles, and record this information in your mind. Search areas with sufficient height of deliverance, as the areas along the differential and foresees the issuance of vital parts that could get hurt or leave embankment (Binding).
then integrates all this knowledge from the driver's seat and "CALIBRA" your eyes to be able to judge heights (warrants) from the immediate vicinity. Do not hesitate to go out again to review some extent and an additional assessment. Take your time, choose your line. Choose a route where the height of your vehicle (RIG) free of obstacles. Simply put the tire on a rock can be lifted your differential and hostile fight any obstacle. Find a high point set to take you through rough terrain and uneven.
The second part is to choose a line that maximizes traction. Choose one to keep your tires on the floor as a tire in the air does not generate any traction. Avoids much axle articulation when possible, even if the rim is not raised. Clarifying, total joint is when the tire compresses uneven terrain with the terrain and the other lets him fly, or falls below the limits of suspension travel.
Even if the tire is touching fallen earth, may be doing little traction. Traction much depends on the pressure of the floor, or the amount of weight pressing the tire on the floor. Blockers help to handle both tires, but still available traction is reduced to a single tire.

G. - USE BOTH TIRES ON THE FLOOR IS MUCH BETTER
The joint is often inevitable, but if you can at least maintain a level axis and generate traction, you're better off. A pair of shafts fully articulated is the KISS OF DEATH in a vehicle with open differentials (open diffs) both front and rear. Skidding tires without charge period. A block at one end you take it outside, but all the torque be in a single arrow, so go easy on the throttle to not break any device.

H. - MOMENTUM vs. USING HIGH OR LOW
One of the hardest lessons to learn and less commonly learned, is the use of DOUBLE DRIVE vs. MOMENTUM. They are constantly confused. When and where is the key and use is obvious but will talk more in front of her. Once an object is moving, it resists the slowing. A 2-ton vehicle and moving average takes a while to stop. Conversely, it also takes some energy to get moving.
A good example for the use of MOMENTUM is very steep hills drive marginal. When attempting to climb it, the tires skid. If attacking a speed of 3 mph, the momentum of the vehicle reduces the need for traction climb accordingly.
The best way to use MOMENTUM is to go short distances. You have to start small and increase MOMENTUM as needed on successive attempts. A good starting point is 2-5 km / h. There are times when it is needed. In contrast, too much momentum in the wrong field (rocks, for example) can cause major damage. Normally
WHEEL DRIVE (acceleration) is required only when needed to make the tires skid. This occurs in certain types of mud, in which they need to eject the excess mud from the tires, cleaning the cuttings of these and thus gain traction. The danger is that if the tire that is sliding, traction in its path could be disastrous for the drivetrain (call arrows or differential).

I. - THE VALUABLE SUPPORT OF A FENCE (SPOTTER)
Being guided by a person in our absolute confidence from outside the vehicle during a difficult maneuver, can be the difference between a hurdle in one piece or several.
The guide (SPOTTER) has complete visibility and can judge angles and poundage of the vehicle much better than the person behind the wheel. A guide should be someone in whom we have great confidence because it is passing control of the vehicle to him or her. The guide in this case becomes the pilot and the pilot becomes his faithful servant. You have to follow exactly the guide's instructions. If you can not see the phone, tell them. Ignore the other "helpers" and concentrate on the designated guide ONLY. Relies more on hand signals (non-verbal), verbal instructions in the guide yells from outside, as they may be misinterpreted or may be lost with the noise of the V8 engine. 2 .-

MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES IN MUD
The sludge is highly misleading, can completely change features a few meters, it should react differently in each section.

A. - THE SCIENCE AND FLOATING TRACTION TRACTION
provides movement through the mud and floating keeps the mud. The sludge may create a very important resistance, even when only the tires are on it, and the more buried are the rims and bottoms are submerged in the mud, the greater the resistance. If the resistance exceeds the traction cease to move. In most types of sludge, the idea is to keep the drivetrain parts out of the mud and this is where the waterline.
pressure flotation is the ground that the vehicle carries vs. the soil's ability to cope. The ground pressure is reduced to disperse the weight over a larger footprint of the tire. A tire with low pressure allows the footprint is larger, so a little deflating tires is a good tactic to deal with the mud. Other tactics would be to use wider tires or reduce vehicle weight.
In regards to traction, the tire tread or you can cross the obstacle or leaves you stuck. Tires with aggressive segments act as a palette. The danger is that some mud sticks to the tire, fill in the branches and making donuts in mud. When this happens. The segments do not generate TRACTION. The more open design wedges itself is clean better than a more closed design segments. In some cases, the tires skid slightly allows the centrifugal force clean the mud out of it.
TRACTION may also depend on the pressure of the soil, usually the higher the pressure better. Traction tire converts torque in forward motion of the vehicle. If the torque applied by the tire exceeds what the floor can support the tire slip. In some cases, flotation and traction in opposite directions. If the tires float very well, traction is reduced due to insufficient soil pressure. Conversely, if too much pressure can have TRACTION soil while you sink. Adjust the tire pressure is probably the best way to solve the problem.
If you are constantly slipping in the mud and not moving, the pressure of the tires to reduce the footprint of it a little and thus increase traction. If you keep skating even with a lot of air in the tires, maybe your tires are too big for the weight of your vehicle.
If instead you're sinking low tire pressure to earn more FLOTATION. If you do this consistently in the land more visits, then your tires are too thin for the weight of your vehicle. Choose your tires on the ground thinking that more frequent.

B. - SELECTION OF GEAR HIGH OR LOW "
to cross mud is important to choose the right gear. Since the torque multiplying gear tires, a low gear (low) can cause loss of traction. If you need to slip the tires, a higher gear this will turn faster.
Generally, you must cross the mud at a moderate pace, high "HIGH" and a comfortable driving speed for the engine. The definition is that SPEED DRIVE with lower engine RPM without choking and can be further accelerated if necessary. With manual transmission is generally used the 2L (SECOND LOW GEAR RANGE). With automatic transmission, use "D" for vehicles with three-speed or "3" for those with overdrive (overdrive) and let the machine pick the speed you want.
Exceptions to the above, include manual transmission vehicles with very high gear they need the first gear or low gear vehicles that can use a higher gear or a higher rank. Other exceptions may be the need for a vehicle transmission automatically in a specific gear and sometimes throw (safari) at the most inappropriate. Despite these general rules, you must adjust to the situation. If your tires are spinning in a low gear change to a higher one or vice versa.

C. - CONTROL OF THE DOUBLE (acceleration) and the skater TIRE
This is a double-edged sword. There are two ways of slipping the tires, the former is more aggressive and a lot of throwing mud and the second is more conservative. Both have their time and place. There
vehicles develop competence in mud dredged up to 5500 RPM and 10 meter hole which could pass a Kenworth. Mud competitors professionals do not necessarily do what we must. If you try this technique in a 4x4 vehicle you can sink into the mud or you can break some mechanical part of your drivetrain.
This technique works for vehicles built especially for mud, using hidriplaneador effect of its huge tires that keep turning without sinking into the mud. In these vehicles, the powertrain is super strong, super tires and engines are built for high revs. The method that you should treat wild or wild depend on your computer. If your vehicle has the qualities or characteristics mentioned above can do that. It should be noted that this technique requires only a part of the time, not always. If you do just to show off, end up being the fool of the group and will break a shaft or gear.
more conservative approach is used when traction is marginal but the float is good. In these cases use a higher gear and let the tires spin a bit. You'll find that speeding more or less, you keep moving forward. When the vehicle starts to pick up speed a bit loose on the gas.

D. - TYPES OF MUD
There are many types of mud and each requires a different technique. Here we mention the basic types and subtypes. Mud
greasy .- This is generally not very deep but because it contains much clay, it is very slippery. Find something similar in Azufres where you have good flotation, but little traction, so I usually have to have the tires inflated. This mud sticks to the tires, so it takes a picture in tires clean itself.
In this type of mud you can use the technique of spinning the wheels to clean and get traction, it is also likely to MOMENTUM need to cross the mud. It's easy to lose control and hit a tree or a rock when your ability to maneuver is limited. Mud
THICK. - It looks like the greasy mud but it is much deeper, also contains clay but more watery. This type of sludge is difficult because you do not give or flotation and traction. Apply the same technique as with greasy mud but you have to winch, slings, shackles, pulley and Pull Pal READY.
Ice Cream Chocolate Mud type .- This sludge has the consistency of fresh cream and is usually served in mountainous areas. The flotation and traction can be decent. Choose the maximum float in this type of mud. Mud
Oloroso .- This sludge is usually near marshes, mud type resembles the Chocolate Ice Cream and contains organic matter decomposition. Use the same technique you use for the sludge ice type but adjusts the technique a bit since this is more watery mud. Sandy mud
.- It is commonly found in mountainous areas, and contains both sand and pebbles. Usually, this mud is not careful, you give good flotation although it may eat your tires. Mud covered
.- This sludge is of any kind but is hidden under water. Can be found in streams, rivers or ponds. Sometimes it is a sandy sediment. Without running water, mud bottom usually contains rocky, greasy, or GUMBO. Mud
rocky .- Any kind of mud or stone ground is bigger than a fist.
Here, the danger is damage to the underside of the vehicle and / or tires. This type of soil combined with a slope can be one of the most difficult situations. Although there is no danger of sinking, the rocks beneath your tires have good traction avoided. If you take away too much air you run the risk of cutting with a stone and if you put too much air is not fit to the surface and, therefore, have no traction. Traction can be good and bad at times and, if you're skidding wheels, you suddenly have too much traction and break some part of the powertrain. Mud type
Fideo .- This is the kind of mud that is mixed with branches, wood, etc. This type of cutting or drilling mud may your tires, exhaust pipes damaged or broken lines brake. You have to adjust the tire pressure for consistency and must be very careful.

E. - MUD vs. OPEN DIFFERENTIAL, LIMITED AIR LOCKERS slips and
An open differential (OPEN DIFF) is the bane of runners. If you put a tire on solid ground and the other on clay, the torque will take the path of least resistance and lead to tire in the mud. In theory, when both wheels have equal traction on both sides, both sides must pull, or maybe not. NO is more common.
The LIMITED Slips are a little better in mud, an economical and friendly to use an option on the pavement. The LIMITED slips work best when there is not much difference in the pneumatic tire traction and most of the time the sludge can not handle this type of blocker (LIMITED SLIP). The type clutch slips LIMITED loosen over time and with the miles. The briefs LIMITED engagement type need the brake pedal.
blockers tires are the best option although the difference between a limited slip and blocking is not much. The difference is most noticeable in rocks or rough terrain where the tires are raised from the floor. In these situations, these blockers are the KINGS.

F. - NOTES FIRST, DRIVE STRAIGHT
Most people get stuck or bound for failure to observe before. When you go to cross a muddy area great first note. If you see recent shot (finger) is a good sign. Notes
depth, the type of mud and the shortest path to cross. Avoid if possible laps. Why? First, because the tires rotated causing greater suction and this can override the traction. Second, and applies mainly to OPEN diffs, in more or less equal traction, a front OPEN DIFF will pull both front tires. If the tire is rotated a few degrees of the center, the torque will probably go to one side of the front tires. EXAMPLE


Imagine being across a greasy sludge that requires some tire slippage. Going very well a while but the vehicle starts to decelerate. Accelerate more or less do not have any effect. In this case the method exists ZIG-ZAG. Try turning the steering wheel from side to side either a quarter or half turn of the wheel. Probably begin to move again. What happens is that this method allows the edges of the tires from sticking to the ground. This technique is very effective with all-terrain tires are not very aggressive saturated mud. In these cases the banks or edges of the drawing are the most important. Much


FINALLY sludge can be hard on your vehicle. Not only is the fact that you have sandy water entering sensitive areas such as differentials and transfer cases but the mud has a tendency to wear out the brakes.
After walking a long time in mud, is a good decision to take the time and energy to clean the vehicle underneath. Clean the brake hose. Periodically change the transmission oil, check that the sludge has not entered into the differential or transfer case!
By Jim Allen Team 4-Wheel

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4x4 Driving Techniques - Use the winch (II)

For Hermit
The anchor winch is any object firmly fixed to the ground, a rock, a tree or another vehicle braking well.
But if there is none of the above, we must devise a way to make an anchor.
There is always the possibility of being alone and stuck in a lonely road, so be sure to have the elements to implement at least one of these anchors.


Anchor with stakes. This solution is fairly easy to implement and if it does not steel stakes can cut some timber to make it. Bury is problematic if you do not have a good hammer and dig them up, same story.


Anchor with spare wheel. This solution requires a lot of work because the wheel must be well buried and the angle above, but if there is a better solution be the mood and start digging. The string can be replaced by the ribbon of fire. The trunk can be replaced by a hard object, such as fire extinguisher.


Anchor Logs. It is a variant of the previous logs when available. It is clear that ingenuity can devise more choices, only care that are safe.
worth noting that you have to carry a big shovel to do the excavations. These small camping are not recommended, because it is extremely exhausted or broken.


more professional solution are the anchors Pull Pal, design based on ship anchors.
is the ideal solution for cleaning on any terrain, especially soft.


are designed to dig to pull with the winch. To unearth sufficient to pull in the opposite direction.


In the picture you can see a folding model.
The main objection to the anchors in general, is its size, weight and how hard it is to take in the always crowded 4x4.
But when the time you need them, grateful to have been cautious and have at least some of the solutions described here.
Sources: Warn.com / Hermit

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Anchors - Use winch (I)

For
Hermit
Winch, also known as winch, winch or capstan, consists of an electric motor (1) connected to the vehicle battery. The motor turns a drum (6) where the cable is rolled steel (3). Some gears multiply the force (5) of the engine. There is a brake (7) and remote (9), which plugs into the control box (8.) Activates the turn or stop the drive drum.
This equipment allows to remove the vehicle from places where it would be impossible to leave on their own.
can also be used to remove trees or objects that obstruct the path.
not be used to lift people.
The winch pulling capacity must be at least one and half times the vehicle weight. Accessories
indispensable for working with the winch
shackle and pulley



shooting gloves and tape


The only sure way to unwind cable drum is hooked to a pulling rope cable hook and pull. Make sure you have removed the brake on the winch.
The same is true when you wrap the cable with no load. So do not catch their fingers with hook.


Find a very firm that serves as an anchor, may be a tree or a stone. Use a tape shot to hook the winch cable. Never use for this purpose because the steel cable will be damaged. If you have time and may, preferably connect the shackle as shown in the picture.


Then with the engine of your vehicle running connect the remote control winch and start winding the cable on the winch drum. Do not forget to lift the hood. If you have to guide the cable when wound, always keep the safe distance of 1 mt. not to pinch your fingers.


One way to increase the carrying capacity of the winch is to use a pulley system, the only downside is that the drift velocity is reduced half.


And if the vehicle is too buried, you use the double pulley, as shown in the picture. Method that multiplies the power of the team, but slows.
Note: If there is an anchor on hand, you can use a couple of volunteer vehicles, respecting that if a way to put the pulleys.


This last image shows the areas of danger in two of the most common shooting conditions. Ask the people who came to retire to a safe distance and then operate the winch.
Remember that a steel cable that can cause serious cuts injury or even kill a human. Top with the cable taut blanket, jacket or any heavy fabric that minimizes the effects of whiplash if you were to cut the cord.
After a few minutes of use, cool the motor of the winch.

M5000 WARN WINCH FEATURES: This is mounted on the Vitara.
Capacity: 2,200 kg (yip weight: 1060 kg)
Motor: 1.7 hp.
Cable: 24 m. x 8 mm.
Weight: 25 kg
The letter "i" in some models refers to the winch solenoid box integrated into the winch at the top, which gives us greater cable capacity and protects against extreme conditions of mud, water or land.
In Chapter II we will see how to do anchors when there are no trees or rocks.
So to buy or get the little things that are missing in order to make efficient use of the winch!
Sources: Warn.com / Hermit

Welcome Baby Letter White House

- As Weld Using

Adapted by Hermit
when hiking or due to a sudden maneuver, the irons are broken and sometimes we are far from a shop where welding power something broken or filled with solder cracks. For these cases there is the emergency welding developed by yiperos batteries.

But how is it possible to weld with batteries? ... good, considering that an electrode of 3.25 mm need 120 amps for proper welding and a minimum of 24 volts, can be welded with reasonable certainty whether we add 3 batteries connected in series. Work better if you have batteries in top condition or additional winches are used to power or auxiliary lights.
reference, starting a diesel engine needs something like 300 amps, and a winch can draw 400 amps. to operate at full capacity, then the three batteries amperage there enough capacity to weld.
almost no risk of electrocution. But wear gloves and do not stand on a wet spot. If the welding is attached to a vehicle, the better off the battery. Protect sensitive parts and paint from welding sparks.
Be sensible and take all proper safety precautions.
This is what is needed for welding with batteries:
- Various cables to connect the terminals in series (the famous current tap). If not enough, engineer unions, using thick cable that if ( see photos).
- Electrodes: the common arc welding.
- clips to hold the electrode and to make dough in pieces. A good alligator helps a lot to hold the electrode or wiring.
- 3 batteries at least.
- A dark glass solder mask (required) to protect the view of the weld (it is very harmful to the eyes).
- Security : battery cover with the rubber on the floor and away as possible from where we are working to prevent sparks inflammation (batteries emit a flammable gas). Solder for short periods. Cool the batteries after each weld. If it sticks to the electrode and does not want to drop off quickly clip the terminal of the battery.
Given certain characteristics of the parts or situations of the moment, it may be convenient for the welder to the electrode to the ground instead of positive, as seen in the images. This improves the weld penetration (valid for electrodes 6010/6011).


batteries need not be exactly the same type or size. If there are no clips to use what is at hand, but ensuring a good contact.


With two batteries, ie, 24 volts, it can work but will be very difficult to maintain the welding arc, unless it is very good welder. In the picture you can see the available live and direct.


The photo shows a yipero in full reconstruction of a cardan, starting from a water pipe ... original drive shaft broke and twisted into two parts.
As you can see, it works!, So practicing at home and with someone who seoa welding so that output can meet any eventuality.
Sources: Twistedandes / Park 4x4/Safari 4x4.

Materbating With Rabitt

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Heating Cord For A 2010 Volvo S60

- Ways to Inflate Tires

by Hermit
When no curing or a service station available, which is common when Travel walks in the mountains or away from dwellings, perhaps these tips to help you inflate the tires to get away more than once.
is your responsibility to evaluate these ideas and implement the safest option for you.
Cases in which a tire is under inflated and need to somehow, are common in 4x4 vehicles, may be necessary to see some air to get to a place to repair it for not having the spare wheel or wheels need to re-inflate after walking in the sand. They can also serve to inflate the camping mattress, toys or boats.
Gauges: The first is to measure air pressure and this is used gauge. Pencil type gauges are cheap, take a pinch, but are not very reliable.


recommend using the digital or those with a clock and are graded on a scale pound for pound.
Keep in mind that the pressure should always be checked with the covers on cold, ie before using the vehicle. If the tire is hot, indicate more extensive air pressure gauge.


Compressors: to inflate a tire the first option is the portable compressors. They are small, are connected to the cigarette lighter (12v). Inflate a tire slowly, but take out of trouble.


trasvasije Hose: a hose long enough and two valves used to release air from the spare wheel or other wheels. A valve connects to the spare tire and the other serves to inflate (different). This option is required to travel with the spare tire inflated beyond what is normal for you to donate without being empty air.


cylinders with compressed air: There yiperos carrying a container full of air (PowerTank), but this option does not recommend it for newbies. If using this
item, be sure to use a certified cylinder with gauge included and never charge more than is prudent.
should be noted that it is quick and good solution, even mounts tires because the flow can be generated.


Aerosol Inflators : They inject a liquid in contact with air it expands, forming foam inside the tire, plugging and filling the tire punctures, without inflating. There can hardly bear to repair the tire warning the mechanic that was inflated with aerosol, and that could be flammable.
There are other solutions, obviously only for extreme cases which is inflated with air from a pneumatic cylinder escape and when this is full, use this air to inflate the tire under. The cons of this approach is that the exhaust air is very stale and mixed with other gases, which could be unsafe to the heating of the tire.
I recommend reading the article "Methods to Fit Tyres" to supplement the information given here.

Miniature Septic Tank

- Suzuki, history and models

Adaptation: Hermit
--------------------------------------
------------------------------------------ 1968: Suzuki LJ (Jimny, Brute)
The first 4x4 Suzuki has built results from another small truck of the Hope Motor Company. Elo HopeStar ON360 began development in 1965 as a vehicle for basic and reliable all-wheel drive. He did so without "frills" such as doors and do not need more than canvas seats. was powered by a Mitsubishi two-stroke engine, 359 cc and 25 hp, air cooled. However, the company struggled after selling only a handful of these vehicles. Suzuki bought the rights to plant production of ON360 in 1968. Intending to make a good car even better, used the HopeStar Suzuki based its Jimny 360, also known as or Brute IV LJ10. Replacing an engine design Suzuki's own was just one of the amendments, which included a redesigned body but instantly recognizable. They had to keep within the Japanese mini-car category for tax purposes, so that the spare wheel could not be mounted in its traditional position in the back door, but in only seat next to the rear to keep the overall length of less than 3 meters. This set the LJ10 as a vehicle with three passengers. In 1970 after two years of development, became the first mass-produced 4x4 in the Japanese mini-car category. Suzuki

Although not officially sold in the United States of America, some Suzuki LJ these were sold by importers in California, Nevada and Arizona in early 1971. While the two-stroke air-cooled 359 cc and 25 hp was perfect for the Japanese market, especially considering the negligible weight of 590 kgs., EERA clearly insufficient to U.S. buyers, as it was hard to achieve their legal limits 72 km / h.

In 1972, the LJ20 (a slightly updated version of the LJ10) was presented with changes such as cooling water for the 359 cc engine, with a power boost to 32 hp and a top speed of 75 km / h . probably the biggest improvement seen by the few Americans who had a was the change of the steering wheel to the left. In 1973 there was a slight modification consists in changing aesthetics of the slats of the grille to the vertical and the replacement of lights (position lamps also in the U.S.) only by two vertical lights.

brought 1,974 LJ50 (Jimny 550, SJ10), another substantial improvement in the range LJ. With changes in the specifications of the Japanese auto categories, Suzuki was able to increase the size of the engine. Adding a third cylinder, the new water-cooled engine of 539 cc and 33 hp two-stroke available yielded a slightly lower regime, solving one of the biggest complaints about the range LJ Japanese foreign markets. This engine was known for its huge torque relative to its size. Although it was not yet powerful enough to U.S. demands, this all-rounder was at least capable of reaching 96 km / ha despite the gain of 45 kgs .. Along with new measures of motor admissible specifications of the categories allowed to mount the spare wheel on rear door of the vehicle, leaving room for a fourth seat.

LJ50 Built in conjunction with the latest, most powerful and best of breed LJ was the Suzuki LJ80 (SJ20) of 1,977, which weighed 770 kg .. Boasted of the biggest improvements over the life of the range, and was designed to export objective world. Rumors of a larger engine for LJ persisted for years but were constantly denied by Suzuki, who wanted to maintain the development of a completely new engine in secret. As was the prime mover Suzuki four-stroke, it took years of testing and development to its engineers were satisfied. The new four-cylinder engine and 797 cc, with distribution SOHC (single overhead cam in head), developing 41 hp and a tremendous increase in torque, improved fuel economy and emissions much cleaner compared with its predecessors. Accompanying the increased power longer had developments in the gearbox and the final group to keep more relaxed cruising, reinforced chassis, improved handling thanks to the repositioning of the rear shocks and widening of roads in 10 cm .. Other commercial features a few seats were nice, new steering wheel, a speed of 130 km / h, an increase of the fuel tank capacity of 26 to 40 liters and additional brake lights. The external symptoms of the new power was mild, with wider fenders, the high bonnet line with new air intakes on the front and rear bumper and taillights integrated into the body. In 1979 there was a slight redesign of the LJ80, which is positioned below the headlights and out on each side of the redesigned grill. Also offered for the first time metal doors. In addition, the new model pick-up LJ81 joined models hardtop convertible and the range. The LJ series was produced until 1983.

------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------- 1982: Suzuki SJ (Samurai, Sierra, Jimny)
After more than a decade proving their worth as a 4x4 in countries around the world, Suzuki introduced the new SJ410 (nomenclature representing 4-wheel drive and 1.0-liter engine) in 1982. This road was also known as the SJ30, the Sierra, the Jimny, and also sold as the Maruti Gypsy in India and Holden Drover in Australia. Largest and most modern LJ series, the SJ30 improved strengths and solved many of the weak. The 4-cylinder engine and 970 CCER a larger version of the LJ80 engine, which developed 45 hp and an even greater increase in torque, which helped push the 135 kgs. SJ additional on LJ faster identical maximum speed of 110 km / h..

differences between it and the popular Samurai course include a smaller engine, the smallest track width with leaf springs located further inland, relationships 12% shorter in short and long final group 10% shorter transmission 4 gears, brakes Front and rear drum without assistance, parking brake acting on a box drum Transferred, design and board seats, no roll bar, and availability of convertible versions, hard top, no glass hardtop, pick -up and a raised roof.

In Britain, a "gentlemen's agreement" between British and Japanese industries by limiting the market share of Japanese cars to 11%, the newcomer left Suzuki with a small market share. The popularity of the range Suzuki SJ forced to investigate the production in other countries. The English company Land Rover Santana SA was looking for a product to complete its production Land Rovers, so that Suzuki took a 20% share of Santana (later increased to 32%). This operation involved the European content exceeds 60% parts, which made them immune to the quotas imposed by Britain.

Since 1983, Suzuki identified a market demand for a longer version of the SJ410 and SJ413. increasing track width of 35 cms. and the total length of 58 was born the new Long SJ. It was available as a convertible with 4 or 6 seater, hard top raised, 3 types of pick-up and the rare version with 4-door hardtop (in fact, this release may not have existed, do you know someone for sure?). Suzuki had a vehicle that met all the possible needs of users of small SUVs. Due to its overwhelming popularity, the SJ series production continues today, although it has undergone several updates.

SJ Series in 1984 received its first major update. With the addition of a new aluminum engine with 1,324 cc and 64 hp, the series SJ was sales leader again. The SJ410 (4WD, 1.0 liter) and the new SJ413 (4WD, 1.3-liter) received front disc brakes and Brake Assist, redesigned seats and dashboard, and change the old metal grille with vertical slats to the plastic that all know.

By this time the popularity of the Suzuki because of its price, performance and reliability allowed to be sold in the countries hardest in the world, Suzuki responded by incorporating plants in Spain (Santana) and India (Maruti) to complement the production of the vast factory Hamamatsu Japan.

So far, Suzuki has never officially sold any of his 4x4 in the United States of America, but about 3,000 units of SJ410 arrived by private distributors. With the success of the SJ series in over 100 countries around the world, saw a huge market ready for this vehicle. Suzuki SJ413 taken as the base for what was called Samurai and he made few major changes mentioned above. Unfortunately, in the U.S. was only available in short versions and hardtop convertible.

1985 was the year that the U.S. was presented at the 86 Samurai, and was an immediate success. On the basis of 1,170,000 pesetas (€ 7,043.18) and equipped for 1,420,000 pesetas (€ 8,519.98), many people could not resist. Starting with just 1,200 units imported per year, sales increased exponentially to 8,000 units per month and soon found Suzuki Samurais with 47,000 sold at the end of its first year. Not only was the best-selling convertible in the U.S., but which reached record sales in the first year of any Japanese car company.

Given the success of the VW Beetle, Suzuki planned to always check (not change) the vehicle, thus maintaining its style and simplicity. The model of 1,988 brought the first significant changes in the Samurai. In an effort to improve ride quality settled softer springs and dampers, while a thicker front stabilizer bar was used to reduce lateral tilt on curves.

The relationship of the 5th gear was reduced to improve the flow on the highway, and a new aluminum radiator, a redesigned cylinder head, and used a larger spreaders in transmission. The dashboard was totally redesigned, from the ventilation nozzles became square to allow better integration of radio, up to a 4-arm wheel that replaced the previous 3, plus more comfortable seating with rubber knobs, new tires with round holes and a slightly redesigned front grille.

1990 brought further improvements to the Samurai. The injection topped the list of new features. The output increased only 2 to 66 hp, but the improved elasticity of the engine improved highway driving and off. lowered engine displacement of 1,324 cc to 1,298 cc. Two of the four satellites of the front differential were removed and installed new sealed bearings in the transmission and transfer case.

Changes to the Samurai of 93 consisted only of a change in the grille, which now incorporated the "S" Suzuki in the center. The following year was the last for the Samurai in California, whose only change was the disappearance of the back seat because of new safety regulations. Unfortunately, the Samurai also disappeared from the rest of the country and Canada 1,995.

For the rest of the world, 1996 brought major changes to the SJ series. The new Samurai "spring" was more easily identifiable from below, where four new piers body suspended on the same axes, which now had a development of 3.909 instead of 3.727. The gearbox ratios rose from 1.409 to 1.320 long and 2.268 to 2.123 in short. We worked hard to make a vehicle more comfortable. Soundproofing the engine compartment, new body and engine mounts, completely redesigned dashboard, steering wheel, doors, console and front and rear seats with additional luxury items, and of course the new suspension, it became a vehicle of a higher . More powerful brakes, steering direction, ventilation motor, the ignition coil, the control clutch and the new exhaust system had superior performance. The cooling system and fuel tank were slightly enlarged, and the resistance of the chassis was improved with reinforcements and side protection bars. outside, a tough-looking hood, wheelarches, grille and bumpers soften the look while recovering LJ style thanks to the double set of lights and parking lights flashing located at the front corners, making it the SJ far more attractive.

Not all factories began to use springs in the model of 1,996, and not all the same engines installed. In Japan, the model still used 660 cc turbo 12-valve 58 hp compressor that yielded, in addition to the updated 1.3 with 16 valves and sequential multipoint fuel injection. On the other hand introduced a 2.0-liter Mazda engine in the Vitara and Samurai for Asian and Australian markets. In the following year introduced an intercooler that increased the power of flexible and powerful diesel engine by 23% and torque by 29%, further reducing consumption. For European markets, such as Santana and other factories set up a motor 1.9 turbodiesel Peugeot in the Samurai and Vitara.

------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------- 1989: Suzuki Vitara (Sidekick Shield, Sunrunner)
Rumors of a 4x4 for a new market segment turned out to be true when the new Suzuki Vitara (there called Sidekick) three-door hardtop or canvas appeared in the U.S. in 1989. Built at CAMI, the new joint factory Suzuki and General Motors, were sparsely motor with 1.3-liter engine from the Samurai, but were soon equipped with an enhanced version of that engine injection valves and 8 Cubed 1,590 cc and developed 80 cv. Also sold as Suzuki Escudo in Asia, Suzuki Vitara in Europe and Australia, Suzuki Sidekick and Chevy, GM and Geo Tracker in the U.S. and Asuna Sunrunner in the South Pacific and Canada Suzuki's new car proved to be another very popular. Slightly longer than the Samurai, made use of an independent front suspension, rear suspension springs, an optional automatic transmission and a much nicer interior. With little or no sacrifice in their qualities out of asphalt, this new vehicle rose Suzuki's reputation as a builder of serious off-road vehicles.

In 1991, Suzuki introduced the new model over a 5-door and Vitara hardtop of extending the range to the absolute limits. To justify the extra weight of the engine installed version 1.6 with multipoint fuel injection and 16 valves yielding 95 hp. With many new factories complementing the main factory in Japan, Canada and Spain, Suzuki was able to provide their vehicles anywhere in the world.

To compensate for the disappearance of the Samurai, in 1995 saw the introduction of the Vitara Sport, decidedly superior and more sporty. Available in the U.S. with a new DOHC 1.8-liter, 120 hp, the new engine a new body called desperately. The 16-inch wide wheels were offset by stronger fender fins, the grille and more aggressive hood line and luxuriously redesigned interior was not available with the standard engine. But Europe, Asia and Australia had an even better version, called Long Vitara V6. Its 2-liter V6 24-valve engine was the largest and most powerful of Suzuki, who developed mild 134 hp and a generous torque curve.

Suzuki Vitara, most of its history and Models

The Suzuki "Shield" initial Vitara name in the end could not register, was born in 1988. With a philosophy much more versatile than the Samurai, the renamed Vitara (Sidekick or saw in other markets) is more spacious, comfortable and powerful than its little brother, but about some skills that waiver of the off-road use. It is manufactured under license by Suzuki in several countries, including Canada, CAMI (Automotive Inc. started production in 1989) and in Spain, Suzuki Santana.

The first engine that was introduced (G16A) 8 valves Carburetion of 1,590 cm3, which offered 75 hp. In 1990 Santana (Spain) obtained the manufacturing license of the Vitara, made from a single point electronic injection engine of 1590 cm3, 80 hp (G16A). In 1991, thanks to a 16-valve cylinder head and some improvements in the injection system (becomes multipoint), the five-door version unveiled a 1,590 cm3 engine of 96 hp with the name G16B.

In 1995 he became known version Suzuki Vitara more powerful, incorporating a motor (H20A) V6, 24 valves of 1,998 cm3. and yielding 136 hp. Also in 1995 appears Vitara called "broad gauge" where the main feature is the increase of the means of 5 cm., Wider wheel arches, steps 255/60R15 tires, new upholstery, among other things. Your engine was known G16B with 1,590 cm3 and 95 horses.

existed in other markets J20A engine, 16-valve, 1,995 cm3., Longitudinal engine yielding 128 hp, and even in the American market, where it is known as Sidekick Vitara there a version of "sport" engine and 1,800 cm3 120 hp. In the market also sold a version with 3-speed automatic transmission and 1,590 cm3 engine. injection, which could even be acquired only with rear-wheel drive (2WD).

Overview:

Though considered the elder brother of the Samurai, the external dimensions, especially the Vitara 3p are not spectacular, especially the width being the main beneficiary. Like the Samurai Vitara remains confident the lower structure to a robust chassis rails and cross members which anchor the body. The suspension system has changed substantially in search of greater efficiency asphalt. With the Vitara banishes robust but uncomfortable suspension by spring, replacing it with a spring-suspension scheme, being in the McPherson front axle and independent rear axle remains a sturdy rigid axle with coils, central triangle and telescopic shock absorbers. While it is true that this type of suspension is very effective on asphalt, you have to say that McPherson was somewhat weak in off-road use, especially in the lower triangle support the front suspension. Should also strengthen the front suspension turrets and the differential housing, which in this case is aluminum and has a tendency to crack, especially if we have a raised suspension. The system automatically blocks, should be replaced by a manual, if we are to use the Suzuki off-road situations. A solution to the problem is the suspension kit on both www.calmini.com high as www.4xfourart.com.

transmission as a good Suzuki, sins of a few developments of reducing a little long, especially if we replace the original tires and other large diameter. The diesel version partly offset these large developments due to the high 'torque' provided by the Hdi engine. In the case of the V6 engine, the development of change are so long that you get maximum speed in fourth gear. Luckily in the aftermarket 4x4 specialist, we can find a kit for the transfer to turn this into a super-lowering, which can not be said of most brands of all-terrain market.

As for the engines, just say what has already been mentioned, that each of the motors mounted on the veer and the rest of the Suzuki range, are more reliably recognized, either in the mechanical gasoline, like diesel mechanics Peugeot home. As a curiosity, the other 8 and 16 valves Vitara are coveted for transplants in the small Suzuki Samurai. It sells for an adapter kit that makes things pretty.

Vitara The equipment is fairly complete for what is expected of him, and depending on the version include: the central locking, electric windows, power mirrors, power steering and optional air conditioning.

The Suzuki Vitara with diesel engines: 1.9 veer

D.
atmospheric
In January 1996 began shipping in Spain Vitara with diesel engine injection atmospheric origin indirect PSA (Peugeot), had four-cylinder and 1905 cm3. The maximum power is 68 hp (50 Kw.) At 4,600 rpm and maximum torque of 12.2 kgm (120 Nm) at 2,000 rpm. The maximum speed can be achieved with this engine is about 140 km / h and acceleration from 0 to 100 km / h in about 22 seconds. As you can see, the road performance are not very bright as it is diminished by the low power of the mechanics and the final development so short, identical to the petrol versions. However, the addition of diesel mechanics allowed an improvement in off-road use, as they have more mechanical strength at low and medium engine speeds. Furthermore, the use of autonomy enables diesel and fuel economy increase significantly, making it possible to do 650 km with a deposit, which incidentally has gone from 42 to 50 liters. By way of comparison, the petrol versions are an average of just over 400 kms of autonomy with a deposit, 350 km in the case of "wide wheel." The addition of diesel engine air brought on the modification and redesign of the clutch, new oil pan, revised suspension to handle the heaviest and replacement of some controls, among other things. As a curiosity, to say that the exhaust manifold outlet is prepared to mount a turbo. The brake system remains the same, being committed to solid front brake discs (390mm) and a pair of drums in the rear rigid axle. Inside, the dashboard has been replaced by another very similar to that of the V6 version. The quality of finish and fit is much better well look art and allow the addition of two airbag without removing the glove. Outside, the Vitara diesel is distinguished by an air intake mounted on the front hood. The price then was around 15,350 euros at the exchange (2,554,000 pts).

veer TD turbocharged and intercooled 2.0

At that time also began shipping the wagon will turn a Mazda motor home TD imported from Japan. Externally identical to the petrol version with a V6 engine, which also comes from Japan. Turbodiesel engine mounts a Mazda home, a 4-cylinder engine line, 2.0 cm3, turbocharger and intercooler, which develops an output of 87 hp at 4,000 rpm. and a maximum torque of 216 Nm at 2,000 rpm. As for the equipment, is standard air conditioning, alloy wheels, power steering, tilt steering wheel, electric mirrors, electric windows and central locking. The outstanding options are dual airbags and ABS. This version of Mazda engine was only available in the English market wagon chassis at a price that was around 19,000 euros.

veer
1.9 TD turbo diesel engine
The next to arrive (1.9 TD) was called XUD9, also from PSA (Peugeot) and four cylinders in line and 1,905 cm3. Included a low blow turbo KKK brand, which made power climbed to 74.8 hp at 4600 rpm and maximum torque of 13.7 mkg (135 Nm) at 2,250 rpm. The result of this mechanism is satisfactory. With this version it is now possible to travel long distances quickly and with a reasonable consumption. The maximum speed is around 160 km / h, although the speedometer lies a lot, and this speed is about 150 km / h real. The equipment consists of power steering, central locking, electric windows, digital clock radio and Pre-installation, with the options: alloy wheels and towbar. The biggest gap is the failure of equipment to include air conditioning in the models made by Santana.

veer turbocharged 1.9 TDi

intercooled engine replacing the 1.9 TD PSA is also a XUD9. This is an inline four-cylinder and 1905 cm3. with fixed geometry turbo and intercooler as an innovation, which made up the power to 90 hp at only 4,000 rpm and torque of 20 mkg (196 Nm) to 2,260 rpm. With this new mechanics the Vitara 1.9 TDi (official name) is far greater than earlier 1.9 TD. Their greater power and torque, making it more pleasant to drive and facilitate the long road rides, run faster (160 km / h) faster and better recovery in addition to spending less diesel than the 1.9 TD and 2.0 TD Mazda source. Consider the comparative data: The above 1.9 TD accelerates from 0 to 100 in 17.3 ", 2.0 TD in 16" and our new 1.9 TDi takes only 13 ". The average consumption of 1.9 l/100 TDi is 8.7, compared to 10.5 from 1.9 and 10.3 TD the 2.0 TD. The autonomy of the 1.9 TDi is left therefore in 630 kms. The Vitara 1.9 TDi is manufactured exclusively in 5-door version in luxury and special series termination. The prices ranged from 3 to 3.6 million pesetas.
Recent Vitara
to market, Suzuki's hand:

veer 1.6-liter 96 hp turbocharged 2.0 HDI 90 and 87 hp

Currently (2004), Santana in Spain still sells several models of the Suzuki Vitara at 3 and 5 door versions and with two engine types: a 1,590 cc. fuel injection yielding 96 named cultivars and a 1,997 cc G16B. HDI 90 cv called DW10TD, turbocharged. Suzuki makes some changes later, the replacement of other unit Bosch Siemens brand, as well as alterations in the ratio of the transmission and compression, so that power remains in 87 cv. (See table). The turbodiesel is identified and differentiated from the petrol versions, by the acronym HDI printed on the tailgate, because in the front hood is missing the entry of air that characterized the old turbodiesel 1.9 TDi 90 bhp. The Suzuki Vitara

to Santana
300-350
When everyone thought that the production Suzuki Vitara would end after the expiry of existing agreements between Suzuki (Japan) and Santana (Linares-Spain), the latter company surprised all and sundry with the launch of a new project based on the Suzuki Vitara lifetime, but incorporating new exterior design changes and are using new names. The three-door version is known as the Santana 300, pudiéndola find fiber roof, canvas and metal. The 5-door long version, is known for Santana 350.

external aesthetic changes I'm referring to, the work of Italian designer Giugiaro are
New front and rear bumpers. New headlamps and rear changing format (round now). Calandra.
The changes inside are minor: Areas of watches. Improved control of air conditioning. New completions in the shifter and transfer, aluminum effect. Paragraph
mechanical
not unchanged. Archiconocidos are still riding the suzuki 1.6 engine G16B fuel injection with 96 hp turbodiesel of 1,997 cm3, 87-cv HDI PSA home.

suspensions remain unchanged, as it remains confident the same pattern of independent front and rear suspension consists of a sturdy rigid axle with coils, shock absorbers and guided arms.

transmission system is the classic pattern of front wheel drive with manually switchable when circumstances demand (off road).

The braking system is entrusted to a solid front discs and rear drums, which is joined by the ABS.

------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------- 1996: Suzuki X-90
The end of 1,996 brought the introduction of a new type of vehicle Suzuki X-90. It is a kind of two-seater sports coupe with a roof mounted on the chassis semidescapotable short of a Vitara. It was a unique vehicle that sold well in some markets, particularly in the case of certain islands, but had little success in others in which he blamed a design too "daring." As effective as the Vitara road but designed to maximize fun, and its sporting qualities on the road, the X-90 is a little beast underestimated.

------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------- 1998: Suzuki Grand Vitara
After a preview at various motor shows what was coming, Suzuki was revealed that to date the largest and most powerful 4x4 in its history. Available as Suzuki Vitara and Chevrolet Tracker 3 and 5-door, convertible or hardtop, and a V6 Grand Vitara, Suzuki had a vehicle global .. powered by new more powerful engines and luxurious interiors to levels not seen for Suzuki, was obviously designed to be the Suzuki vehicle carrying the new millennium. The new 2-liter DOHC 16-valve 127 hp that was developed based on the Vitara 1.8 of Sport, while the new engine 24-valve V6 2.5 yielding 155 hp was based on the previous 2.0-liter V6.

came to the U.S. only 3 models of the new Vitara: the short convertible powered by the already over 8-valve 1.6-or 2.0, or 5-door Grand Vitara with 2.5-liter V8. In other parts of the world, however, had a 3 door model and hardtop as Vitara and Grand Vitara. In addition, they could choose between the 2.0-liter TDi in any of the models. In some markets such as Chile, where the old Vitara is sold with the new more rounded, the Vitara is used to name the old model and the Grand Vitara for the new, unrelated to the engine.

------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------- 1998: Suzuki Jimny
Also new in 1998, but unavailable in the U.S. or Canada, was born totally redesigned Suzuki Jimny. Continued with rigid axles front and rear springs and the venerable engine of 1,300 cc 8-valve, and while intended to remain a whole basic land, cheap and sturdy, it was also designed with comfort and luxury never before seen in the SJ series that somehow adrift. Thus, provided such features as power windows and automatic transmission, designed to make it the Jimny (SJ) most urban of all time, but their axes and rigid chassis and the box made it clear that after reducing its bold new face had a major road to be taken into account.

------------------------------------------------ Conclusions


-------------------------------- Suzuki has always been known for building "bold" small 4x4, but its reliability off-road and in every corner of the Earth has given them a solid reputation. Unlike other car companies today, Suzuki never made a 4x4 that was not a true all-rounder. Or minivans, or cars with all wheel drive or lowered suspensions. Each Suzuki 4x4 has always been a hard road, although small, had the ability to go where the biggest, with the added advantage of its small size and weight give you the flexibility that no other has. The qualities exhibited by Suzuki 4x4 can be appreciated anywhere in the world: reliability, accessibility, efficiency, flexibility, functionality, security, sexy and, most importantly, fun.

is why Suzuki now has a network of 57 production plants in 27 different countries, providing cars and SUVs to almost any country on Earth. Suzuki vehicles have always had personality, something that can not be said of many others, which is obviously appreciated by the holders of the 25 million cars that Suzuki has sold and about 2 million new customers and "repeat offenders" that of each year.

Sources: Velamazán suzuki88 and Ivan Gonzalez.

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Adapted by Hermit . is your responsibility to inform intervene well before your vehicle.
When the engine refuses to boot there are several possibilities:
1. That is drowned
2. There is no electric spark in the spark
3. That benzene is interrupted feeding.
In the first case, let him rest for a while and then try to make the game. Usually this is enough to start the engine.
To test if there is spark at the spark plugs, the procedure is to remove a spark plug wire and put a long screwdriver until it contacts the socket on the inside of the rubber cap. All this without the key contact .
Then the screwdriver is about 2 mm. metal part of the engine and asks the passenger to contact with the key ... if the spark is there to give the starting current of the motor. Do this with caution to avoid electrical shock.
If a good spark plugs, the problem is probably power.
The fault location power system lies simply in follow the path of fuel from the tank to the engine in order to locate the cause of the problem.
Start by checking that there is gas operation (do not rely solely on gas indicator to determine this, as it may give a false reading.)

then slowly unscrew the top of the tank to provide ear while doing so (Fig. 4). If you hear a hiss of air that enters the tank, means that the tank breather system is blocked and has formed a vacuum that has reached the point where the fuel pump fails to extract more fuel.
If the respirator tank of your car is locked (usually consists of a small hole in the filler cap or a small tube that goes from the tank to outdoors) should be cleaned to remove the vacuum.
If these problems do not apply to your car, you may not gasoline reaches the carburetor. To check this, remove the feeding tube of the carburetor and check the fuel pump (by turning the engine with the starter if the pump is mechanical or simply by contact if electric), which should have resulted in the issuance of fuel the tube. If no fuel flow, the more likely is that the pump is defective.
Electric pumps can sometimes be encouraged by giving them a tap with the handle of a screwdriver, but if this fails, the only remedy, as is the case with mechanical pumps, is to remove and replace the unit.
Once satisfied that the fuel reaches the carburetor and the ignition works correctly, the more likely is that the defect is in the carburetor itself.
In most of the carbs, remove the cover of floating is not difficult.
If the camera is full, it means that you have problems with choking, (usually the smell gets discovered this before removing the cover from the top of float), in which case the plugs are wet and not shoot.
A common cause of this is the existence of dirt under the needle valve, but it is not difficult to unscrew and clean the seat. If you remove a carburetor on the road, store the parts carefully so they can be replaced in the proper order. Be especially careful to do so, as some carburetors have acceleration pumps with a ball and spring can lose.
The most common cause of overheating is a break in the fan belt, but there should be a warning of this, since the light will turn coil.
Although many cars today have installed an electric fan, the belt is used to power the water pump and if it does not work, water does not circulate properly and result in overheating. If you do not have a fan belt with it, try the traditional repair using a provisional average woman.
Tie it just around the crankshaft pulley and water pump to ease a little load.

If the battery is fully charged, you may travel a long distance without having to load depending on whether or not you use your lights or other electrical equipment.
If you notice the temperature gauge gives a reading higher than usual for no apparent reason, stop and check the cooling system.
The first thing is to check the filler cap once slightly cooled engine, protect your hand with a cloth and loosen it a quarter turn taking precaution in case there is a steam leak, not to burn. By loosening the lid should you hear a slight hiss. If not, the dock cover is worn or has rotted the seal, which pressure is not maintained properly. In the automotive sealing system, the lid spring is in the expansion tank. Once
pressure relieved, remove the lid and check the coolant level should normally be about 25 mm from the base of the fill hole. In a sealed system, the level of the expansion tank should be around around about 65 mm from the bottom, but there is usually a mark indicating the correct level.
If the level is low, check for leaks. If leaks along the hose clamps, they can usually be corrected by tightening these, while a cracked hose should be wrapped with electrical tape to make a repair.
Small leaks in the radiator can be repaired using preparations such as Bars Leaks or Rad Weld. Water leaks in the pump shaft, this indicates that the collar of the pump is broken and will need to install a new one.
thermostats rarely get stuck in the closed position, but can cause serious overheating. A significant symptom of this is a violent thumping noise coming from the radiator caused by steam bubbles are driven by force through the lower sleeve. To remedy this, let the engine cool, remove the thermostat and drive you home. Put a new one as soon as possible. One cause of overheating
is the head gasket burned, which announced its existence by engine failure, loss of power and, of course, an increase of temperature. The above symptoms are the appearance of globules of water on the dipstick, checking oil in the radiator water or both. There's nothing you can do to remedy this road. Allow to cool the engine and then drive slowly to the nearest workshop for repair soon.
Source: es.geocities.com / errediez www.parque4x4.com.ar/ preparations / vitara /